Monday, July 23, 2012

Developing Local Farm to Table programs...the next step.

In 2008 I embarked on an ambitious project, via the restaurant I operated at the time, Mie N Yu, to connect family farms in Virginia with restaurateurs in the DC metropolitan area.  The name of the program was Farm to Table DC, and has been well documented to have been a financial and PR success for the natural, pasture based farm movement, particularly in Virginia.  The mission would not have been possible without having a high volume restaurant outlet to sell the products, ranging from pasture raised meats and dairy products, to naturally and organically grown fruits and vegetables.  By all measures, the program was a great success for 2+ years, generating well over $2 million in revenue for small family farmers, local processing facilities, and transportation providers.  Most importantly it connected the farmland to the consumer through chefs and restaurants.  Many of the relationships continue, even without the assistance of an organization like Farm to Table DC.  However the nature of the restaurant business is that it unstable, and many of the founding members of this Co-op no longer operate the restaurants that did such a great job absorbing these incredible meats, produce and dairy.  Namely, since Chef Tim Miller and I left Mie N Yu in 2010, the ownership has retaliated into survival mode and become a commodity buyer.  Harry's Tap Room (Michael Sternberg, Michael Kaufman and Chef Alex Reyes), which single-handedly supported an all natural, pasture based beef farm in The Plains, was sold recently and is being re-concepted by new owners.  Potenza and Zola (Dan Mesches and Chef Bryan Moscatello) recently closed, once supporting an entire family of farmers near Culpeper, VA.  Sad...yes.  All the restaurateurs and chefs were committed to "the cause" regardless of profit potential, it was the most fresh, high quality product we could buy.  I had held several conferences to promote the program to other chefs and restaurateurs.  Some dabbled, some forged their own relationships, and some continue to market themselves as sustainable, local purchasing chefs...while in actuality many are just supporting the burgeoning agri-business industry of "natural" meats, dairy and produce.  They would be startled to find out what those products really are...
But what of the successes?  DC Central Kitchen, which graciously provided transportation for the initial program, continues to be the largest purchaser at the Shenandoah Valley Produce Auction in Virginia (a market for local farmers, mostly Mennonite to sell their products), and is pursuing plans to develop it's local-only commissary.  Not surprisingly, former Mie N Yu chef and whole animal guru Tim Miller, is heading up that mission.  Grayson Natural, a group of family farmers in SW Virginia has developed a tremendous relationship with Virginia and North Carolina universities, ensuring that students are enjoying wholesome, nutritious, grass fed beef year round.  These links were developed between farmer and buyer due to the cash flow generated by being involved in the Farm to Table DC program.  For this I am very proud, and feel that the fledgling program was able to create real opportunity and a basic model for how these types of relationships could work around the country.  It was never easy, and we all learned a lot about the life of farmers, the life of restaurateurs, and the challenges of USDA inspected processing and refrigerated logistics.
So what's next?
My Utopian vision of the farmer-restaurateur relationship is this:
* Restaurateur/grocer develops small box concepts, flexible enough to change ingredients daily/weekly/monthly.
* Restaurateur/grocer pledges not to purchase commodity foods.  If it's not available within a days drive and naturally grown, it shouldn't be served or sold.
* Restaurateur/grocer agrees to buy "whole product".  I.e, whole animal (at least what's left after processing), whole veg or fruit as is.
* Restaurateur/grocer agrees to buy frozen products, so long as they are frozen fresh (shortly after processing).  This is important, it allows products to maintain their quality as they move from farm to table without using artifical stabilizers or preservatives.
* Farmer works with other likeminded farmers in his area and elects a "manager" to handle relationships with buyers and organize logistics.
* Farmers agree to grow and raise all livestock, produce, dairy, etc., naturally and seasonally.  If they can't supply it, they should not have to fear losing a customer...because the customer will simply remove that item from the menu until it's available.  Hopefully by forming a group, one farmer will make up for the other's shortage.
* Farmer agrees to sell product at a reasonable price that accounts for actual costs and a reasonable profit.  Not based on market conditions or prices.
* Foodservice distributor agrees to manage the logistics, including pickup and delivery of the product, and accounts recievable...for a reasonable fee.
* Legislators provide an even playing field with agri-business.  This includes more stringent labeling requirements, disclosures, and producers must be willing to open their operations up to public inspection.
* Consumer education would be at the forefront of the programs, in order to help the consumer understand the benefits of natural, wholesome foods for their families health and wellbeing.
In many ways, Farm to Table DC accomplished most of these objectives at one point or another during it's existence.
In order to accomplish these goals I realize that the proper incubator needs to be in place, and the goal of this organization must be to develop the farm to foodservice to consumer relationship.  So 501c3 meets Capitalist entity in one organization, with the underlying mission to never grow to big for it's britches.  My friends at Grayson Natural Foods have it right...they've committed to bring in neighboring producers once they each reach a very modest income level.  In this way the entire community benefits from their endeavors as opposed to a small group of owners.  The community benefits in so many ways, primarily in converting both agricultural and industrial land into pasture based, natural farmland.  This preserves the agrarian principles and financial security that allows agricultural communities to remain so on a relatively small scale; improving the environment and soil as opposed to damaging it.  In this same way small farmers can cooperate to improve their ability to bring their collective products to market; and restaurateurs and grocers can more easily access these products.  The final point, that consumers would be educated to "vote with their dollars", therefore using a Capitalist approach to encourage agri-business to play the game right...or get out of town.  This would be of course supported by the level playing field that local legislators could provide.
So what is the incubator?  My initial goal is to open a QSR (quick service restaurant), that's underlying mission is to connect the consumer to local, natural agricultural products.  This provides a small, low-overhead outlet to begin developing the pipeline between the agricultural community and the consumer.  This QSR concept would have a small retail outlet, showcasing the products in their whole form.  Education would be as much a part of the business strategy as great food and service.  Phase 2 would be an extension of this business into a small grocery store.  Phase 3 would be to bring the farms to the "burbs", by encouraging permaculture and conversion of backyards to organic gardens, local residents could participate in the process as both consumer and producer.  Much in the way that energy efficient homes can produce energy for the grid.
Phase 1 is not so far away, but I realize that in order to do it right, I need to do it myself.  I need control, and then I can make sure that the integrity of the venture goes hand in hand with the financial success of the venture.
The Mitchell Family of Grayson Natural Foods
For now I am content to be preparing our 3.5 acre farm in Chandler, AZ for our first planting of organically grown fruits and vegetables.  I guess I'm putting Phase 3 ahead of Phase 1 for now...

1 comment:

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